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Marvelous Martinique
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Bon Jour from Marvelous Martinique

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Marvelous Martinique

Visiting Martinique, was an absolutely Marvelous trip for Me. when we arrived into port that morning, I was out on deck taking in the beautiful landscape of the countryside, before we officially put into port. I had gotten up at dawn with a call from my purser's clock, so that I could see the landing in the St Lucia Pass, rumored to be one of the most beautiful approaches in the windward islands. I Love Scenery, and will get up early anytime to beat the rush to the deck, having breakfast with the experienced cruisers, eager to get a good spot to disembark early. When we disembarked down to the Customs Arrival Pier, I took a long deep breath of fresh air, "oooooooooooo" I walked down the port past the smiling faces of customs workers, and longshoremen feverishly unloading ships; taking a look at all the tropical greenery and inhaling the exotic spicy scented spaces. a quick glance at the architecture of the port when disembarking is very much like stepping back in time. Gorgeous antique fret work and gingerbread decorates the sun faded tropical colored buildings and even the newer warehouses. Luckily the trade winds blew constantly, and if not, you would be instantly covered in the thick perfumed humidity of this orchid like paradise.

Arm to Arm Shopping on Rue Schoeller is the obligatory pastime for visitor and resident alike. the small street crammed tight with the most exotic and exclusive, side by side with the local specialties; overwhelms one's pockets immediately. I must admit that shopping there, I was able to make some of my best buys on better Perfumes and Body Scents; as well as Cosmetics, Rum which is spelled Rhum; and Accessory Items in local boutiques. I advise that you make your first stop the Bureau D'Change, to enable you to pay what the locals pay without much haggling. Using a Credit Card is also a good way to limit the exchange rate to the best of the week, when your bank at home processes the charge. The sizes of items are all in european metrics so it's fairly easy if you shop in canada or europe alot. I had little difficulty translating the sizes into english equivalents since most clothes are labeled in French and English with both descriptions in full. I love the selections of colors and scents that are often not available in the US, like "All About Eve", by Joop - one of my Favorite Fragrances. of course I bought the crystal apple since I knew I wouldn't be getting more until my next trip to a duty free country.

all that shopping makes one Hungry and Thirsty. I passed McDonalds, and several small juice bars, in favor of a fresh cold Cane Juice and a Warm Croissant. I walked a bit further off the downtown path into a local neighborhood, and discovered a whole range of eateries and shops which I gladly patronized. The Boulangerie that I stopped at for a delicious Ice Cold Sugar Cane Juice was just off the main square near the Central Market. When I saw the Market, I crossed the street, juice in hand and I went in. Walking around, I bought a multitude of pre packaged spices, as well as a few pieces of lovely tropical fruits to enjoy during the duration of my journey onboard the ship. The Flower Ladies were grand in their Fancy Starched and Tied Calico Head wraps and Aprons. Looking much like the Mama Benz's that they undoubtably are. several of them engaged me in conversation in my poor Creole, then smiling hugged me and spoke in perfect english to ask me where I was from. They were always enchanted at my poor efforts at both Creole, the national language, and French, which is very widely spoken. One of the Ladies recommended several shops to visit, and as well a restaurant serving a traditional Chicken dish that I was encouraged to try by friends from Martinique. I was in Luck indeed. the tall palm trees swayed gently as I set out down the street with my many packages, securely en cased in my newly acquired french shopping bag, to find the Chicken of my dreams.

I stopped for lunch at a wonderful small restaurant in Fort D'France that I was advised served this special Chicken dish Native Style; knowing that I had to have this dish before I left Martinique, I walked up the stairs into this small white Caribbean restaurant with no more than 10 tables, covered in white plastic lace tablecloths, and decorated with Flowers, spices, and the obligatory bottle of Hot Sauce. I asked the very friendly lady who was acting as host, cashier and wait person, to recommend the best chicken dish on the menu, and she quickly laughed and said well of course you've come for the "Fricasse D' Poulet". I am so glad she was kind enough to say it for me, because each person who said it for me, laughed at my asking them to write it down. I ordered, and found out that it was accompanied with a salad, riz, and a glass of White Wine. imagine that, a glass of wine included with your lunch. Well it was absolutely wonderful. tender, stewed to perfection, and coming off the bone tender. the flavors of the spices and the tender fricasse gravy made it indeed a gourmands experience worthy of note. this link is to a recipe for this Luscious Fricassee D'Poulet, Martinique's National Chicken Dish.


that Morning I had shopped till I dropped in the duty free boutiques, on Rue Schoeller. also in the many small european boutiques and fashion outlets specializing in accessories, casual items and of course Nail polish. the Martiniquens love Nail Polish. All Kinds and All Colors. I saw people doing nails everywhere. it was like New York. and jewelry, I saw 18 and 24 Caret Gold Jewelry in abundance, draped on everyone. very little 14 Caret which is not as desirable, I was told, by a young 18k gold toothed Man. Fort D' France is host to several large well priced wonderful Supermarkets like Match, which is a large chain store from France. All were Well Stocked, Clean and filled with all the best French, European, African and Caribbean seasonings, wines, cheeses and staples. All carried more than enough gadgets and kitchen acoutremount's; Much more than any well shopped gourmand could ever want (sigh). I filled up two large shopping bags, returning to the ship twice with packages, from these carefully researched, and list pre-planned shopping assaults. I bough several types of tubed paste spices, like Harissa, and also Garlic Paste. I must admit that paying $2.00 for them in Martinique was not as bad as paying $5.00 for them at the local gourmet market. Yes I advise you to "Always shop the local Supermarkets on vacation" and pick up those wonderful kitchen tid bits that are so hard to get back home. I got fantastic wine, grape seed oil, Cheeses (which I ate before arrival back into the US, due to customs regulations), Chocolates and Crackers . I got Coffee; My Favorite Powdered and Bar Dutch Chocolate; and several lovely Chocolate Candy giftboxes and Local Candied Fruit Bon-bons for Gifts. I found the hot sauces " Sauce Piquant" to be interesting and very tasty - not just hot; and with this discovery, I was forced to purchase several; finding one that I really enjoyed; and eventually succumbing to purchasing a full case of that brand, at the Match Supermarket when I arrived in St. Martin. it was truly a shopping paradise. much like Paris...Magnifique.

The Beach was lovely beige sand, with a gently rolling tide. warm and turquoise. inviting even in 100 degree heat. I found the water vendors plying up and down the beach a great convenience until I realized that they sold the 8oz bottles of Evian for almost $1.00 US. (Very Expensive even for a french export) but when you're thirsty you'll pay it. I bought post cards at a small shop near the gorgeous Antique Post Office. this beautiful Victorian style building, was constructed in the early 1900's. It is still the place to go to get and send mail; make international telephone calls easily; and catch one of the many euro-luxe Mercedes Benz Taxi's. another building to see is the beautiful Schoelcher Library Built by architect Henri Pick, a contemporary of Gustave Eiffel, in the polychrome Byzantine- Romanesque revival style of the 19th century, the library was prefabricated in France and its parts shipped for assembly. Pick, who also built the Cathedral, completed it in 1893 to house the 10,000 volume private library which Schoelcher, champion of equal education for blacks, donated to Martinique. .

I hopped into the car with a very nice young tall dark handsome gentleman, and proceeded to tell him in as best Creole as I could muster, that I wanted to visit the Fort D'France Artist Market. He said in a gregarious Caribbean lilt "No Problem Madam" and sped off on a course through the many small streets leading to the center of the city where the artist market is located. It is a very bright Light filled space with large vibrant paintings greeting you as you glance in through the french doors. A friendly young lady by the name of Angelique was there minding the shop on that day. She offered her assistance and then allowed me to walk around and take in the wonderful array of Paintings, Sculptures, and native arts and crafts, all handmade by artists in Martinique. The shop is well stocked and prices are quite reasonable for the quality. I spent most of my time looking at the racks of brightly colored native postcard scenes. Flowers, Butterflies, Beach Scenes and Landscapes of the Lush Mountainside near Mt.Pelle. I purchase lots of Post cards, a nice coffee table art book; and several pieces of sculpture. Angelique wraps them in a brightly silk screened plastic bag, and hugs me warmly, bidding me "Adieu" as I depart back out into the crowded street.

The driver opens the door for me when I come out of the Artist Market, to invite me into the Cool of the still idling Mercedes. amazingly I only saw one petrol station and no lines, for the many cars both large and small that filled the very congested streets of Fort D'France. on the way back I asked the driver to stop again at the post office so that I could get more stamps for the many post cards that I would be mailing before I left the island that evening. He parked and waited patiently as I disappeared back into the wrought iron facade to queue for the Bright and Beautiful Tropical Postage Stamps. I took my time at the window as the clerk opened her box to let me look at the treasures. I bought Butterflies, Flowers, and Seashell Stamps in Martinique. All small art treasures and lovingly framed now, a part of my stamp collection.

The Afternoon was drawing to a close, and I still needed to take a brief tour around Fort D'France to get a few photographs; more easily from the comfort of a car; My driver accommodated me proudly with fabulous shots of the Musée d'Archéologie et de Préhistoire de la Martinique ; the Central Market; and Rue Schoeller - since I was over burdened with packages when last there and couldn't take a single photo. and of course the famous Parks and Waterfront of Fort D'France; with it's glittering Diamond like Sand, and Neon Casino's all competing for the tourists attention. I highly recommend Martinique for those who've traveled in the Caribbean and Europe. it's often pricey, but very accommodating resorts offer a wide range of activities and luxuries. there are Lots of Events and Carnival that draw revelers year around. There are Mountain Spas; Very Exclusive Petit Country Inns; and Cosmopolitan City Hotels that always find enchanting ways to accommodate one more dazzled guest. take a moment and visit the Tourist Board's Martinique Virtual Tour; My Marvelous Martinique Webshots Photo Album; and also my Martinique Resources Page to help you plan the perfect getway to the most cosmopolitan city in the Caribbean - Fort D' France Martinique.
"Au Revoir Mon Cherie"